PARIS — Less than a year after its relaunch, beginning in mainland China, Atelier Cologne Paris has ambitious expansion plans.
The niche fragrance brand, which was reintroduced in mid-March starting in Shanghai’s IFC mall, Beijing’s SKP mall and on Tmall, has subsequently accelerated its rollout. In early November, Atelier Cologne debuted a freestanding flagship in Taiwan. It is the only one in existence today.
“It’s important to put the [emphasis] on the physical space,” explained Sandrine Groslier, global president, luxe fragrance brands at L’Oréal, which acquired Atelier Cologne in 2016, seven years after its launch.
She described brick-and-mortar stores as key drivers for consumers to consider a new brand. Before entering China, Atelier Cologne revised its product offer, including new formulas, aesthetics and storytelling.
“It’s working on the market — seducing a new generation of consumers,” said Groslier.
According to industry sources, in all the doors where Atelier Cologne has opened in the country, it ranks in the top 10 — and mostly in the top five — of prestige fragrances. Online, the brand is garnering high rankings, too. On vip.com, it places in the top five and on Tmall, in the top 15, for instance.
Groslier said Atelier Cologne’s new platform, with the tagline “scented art crafted from nature,” chimes with the demanding and sophisticated Chinese perfume consumer.
Expansion is a priority, according to the executive. And this will not take a cookie-cutter approach. No two Atelier Cologne store spaces will be visually identical.
“Each time we open with a new design,” said Groslier. However, the same vibe, brand codes and artistic vantage point remain.
“Education is at the heart of the vision,” she continued. That translates into teaching consumers about fragrance — especially the new long-lasting colognes — in-store.
The 1,505-square-foot Taipei boutique was created to express what Atelier Cologne is about today.
“It’s bringing directly the vision of the brand, with big windows,” said Groslier, adding through them people can see elements of nature, art and craftsmanship, like in an artist’s atelier.
There, too, is a big table where people can experiment with and learn about perfumes.
“We will also use these points of sale to showcase artistic collaborations,” said Groslier, explaining Atelier Cologne plans to curate new artists while paying tribute to established ones. French designer François Azambourg, for example, has already created some pieces, like a vase, for Atelier Cologne.
“His work is all about nature — trees and leaves. We wanted him to reflect the DNA of the brand,” said Groslier. “Atelier Cologne is a lifestyle.”
The Taipei location serves as a template of sorts for future openings. So far there have been eight since the brand’s relaunch, with locations in Hong Kong and Shanghai between September and March. Since then others opened in Shanghai, Beijing, Kunming, Wuhan, Taipei and Hong Kong. By early 2026, it is expected Atelier Cologne will have about 100 new points of sale.
Another motor driving brand expansion has been the signing on of Chinese actor Yang Yang, which took place on Sept. 2. Widely known, with almost 80 million social media followers, within 24 hours of his being named to the brand through a Weibo post it garnered more than 1 million shares and 301,000 likes.
He fronts Camélia Intrépide, the first major fragrance introduction since Atelier Cologne’s revamp. Groslier described the campaign shot in a Parisian atelier as “story-smelling” — rather than “story-telling.”
The global beauty industry might be slowing, but there remains huge potential in China for fragrance. Groslier noted only 5 percent of Chinese consumers buy perfume today, versus more than 50 percent in the U.S. and over 45 percent in Europe.
“For niche or indie brands, there’s room [to grow],” she said, adding Atelier Cologne can continue to develop at a rapid clip there.
The executive said new consumers, including perfume collectors and signature scent hunters, are currently being recruited to Atelier Cologne stores.
“We have more men than before,” said Groslier.
She would not speak numbers, but industry sources expect Atelier Cologne will register 100 million euros in retail sales in its first year after relaunch.
Groslier said the ambition now “is to expand the brand worldwide.”
She remained mum on specific plans, but did say Atelier Cologne has large demand in the U.S., where it had been successful in the past.
“We are thinking about Europe and the Middle East, where there’s a strong potential for this kind of brand,” said Groslier. “Atelier Cologne is a house with a soul” combining artist and fragrances.
“That’s our new vision of what fragrance is about today,” she said.