Beyond being an adventurous traveler, Daniel Del Core is proving himself a storyteller as well. For his spring collection, he envisioned a studious, dedicated scientist who, despite her serious demeanor, is also an obsessive-compulsive fashion type and clearly a Del Core loyalist. The narrative followed her daily routine, from the sterile environment of her lab (she doesn’t leave home without stacks of ponderous tomes like Hannah Arendt’s The Human Condition and Susan Sontag’s Against Interpretation tucked into her bag) to the dark hours when she sheds her pristine chrysalis and transforms into an extravagant creature of the night—a new breed of translucent scarab or perhaps praying mantis.
Literal references or overt narration can be a risky path, but Del Core navigated it rather deftly. He is shifting the focus of his ready-to-wear shows toward daywear, while his more flamboyant creations will be displayed during January’s Couture Week in Paris. This decision seems to have unlocked a new sense of clarity, resulting in a more disciplined approach. Today’s collection’s edit appeared sharper, reflecting a newfound balance.
The opening looks—a series of flowing, oversized white organza trench coats and layered separates—referenced pristine lab coats. As the collection progressed, it introduced more substantial pieces: slightly oversized pantsuits with tapered trousers and cropped, fitted leather jackets worn over shorts, all with practical, sellable appeal.
Yet it’s with eveningwear where Del Core truly excels. He’s mastered couture-level craft; a growing list of celebrities—including Florence Welch, Sharon Stone, Lupita Nyong’o, Eva Green, and Björk—have graced the red carpet in his creations. The five closing looks were particularly impactful, especially a dramatic black cape dress in structured, pleated organza with a distinctive Cruella de Vil sci-fi edge. The finale was rather spectacular, with Naomi Campbell, draped in a finely pleated white column dress, embodying the goddess she is.
